Author: Anne Wijethunge

This zesty white from north-west Spain, neglected for decades, is making waves thanks to talented growers WORD ON THE VINE GODELLO THE GRAPE Twenty years ago, no one had heard of albariño; now godello (pronounced ‘go-deh-yo’), northwest Spain’s other great white grape, is moving into the spotlight. It had almost disappeared by the 1970s, but a small group of dedicated growers and producers revived godello’s fortunes by focusing on the best vineyard sites and scrupulous quality control. In Portugal’s Douro and Dão regions, it is called gouveio. THE TASTE Like albariño, godello is as zesty as a squeeze of fresh…

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