CHEFS FORUM
FLAVOURS OF ARALIYA
Sam Wedande has turned a childhood love of cooking into a lifelong vocation
Q: Having started your culinary journey in Kandy, what are your strongest memories of learning to cook in the hill capital?
A: I have fond memories of learning about unusual and exotic vegetables from my paternal grandmother. She was a true vegan at heart, always cooking with whatever was freshly picked from our family’s land.
Later, when my father worked as an irrigation engineer in Mahiyanganaya, I was fortunate to observe the descendants of the indigenous Vedda people prepare their food in fascinating ways.
They would coat venison or wild boar with forest honey, slowly roast it over a wood fire, then smoke it or bury it under hot ashes to preserve it for the weeks ahead. It was like stepping into another world – one where food, nature and tradition were deeply intertwined.
Q: How did your experience working in five-star restaurants in the UK and at the Hilton Melbourne shape your culinary approach?
A: I trained alongside top chefs in five-star hotels, gaining invaluable insights from the best in the sector.
Q: Over the years, what have been the defining moments in your career as a chef and restaurateur?
A: My first role after graduating from the Ceylon Hotel School was as head chef at the Blue Oceanic Beach Hotel (now Jetwing Blue).
Leading a kitchen brigade of 30 at only 23 years old was daunting but I had support from the school’s senior lecturers – mostly British and German individuals – and the encouraging Jetwing family.
Later, at the Hilton Melbourne, I had the rare privilege of cooking for royalty and legends, such as King Charles and the late Princess Diana, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Sammy Davis Jr. and Tina Turner.
Over the past 40 years, I’ve been honoured with awards and features in national newspapers and magazines, including Qantas and Gourmet Traveller, along with appearances on TV and radio.
Q: What inspired you to open Araliya – and how has it evolved since its early days?
A: The inspiration is rooted in family traditions, and a passion to transform culinary skills and creativity into memorable dining experiences.
Araliya began in 1985 as a humble 40 seater in Hawthorn. Nineteen years later, we expanded to a 60 seater next door, before growing into a bar and restaurant in St Kilda, which seated 120 guests. In 2021 – during the COVID-19 era – we chose to return to our roots in Hawthorn, embracing a more intimate setting.
Today’s diners are more informed than ever; they’re conscious of ingredients, origins and dietary needs. So we focus on offering distinctive culinary experiences and thoughtful menus. At Araliya, the dining atmosphere and ambiance are as important as the food itself, guided by a simple philosophy: quality and consistency over quantity.
Q: Could you describe the core philosophy behind Araliya’s menu?
A: My goal has always been to craft dishes that balance the five essential tastes – viz. sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami – while celebrating the fragrant herbs and spices of Sri Lanka.
From meats and seafood, to game and vegetables, each plate at Araliya reflects this harmony. Vegetables in particular take centre stage with up to eight varieties cooked fresh to order.
I’ve built lasting relationships with trusted suppliers over four decades, believing that the finest produce is key to serving exceptional food. Our menu shifts with the seasons, featuring recipes honed and perfected over 40 years. Each dish is uniquely prepared and no flavour, method or ingredients are ever repeated, ensuring that every bite offers something new.
Many guests come to Araliya to celebrate life’s special moments and we do everything possible to make their dining experience unforgettable.
Q: How do you balance the essence of traditional Sri Lankan cuisine with a contemporary approach while maintaining authenticity?
A: Great cooking honours the history and roots of a dish, while leaving room for creativity and personal expression.
It’s about understanding the essential techniques and flavours of traditional cuisine, then blending them with modern methods and ingredients – not for the sake of chasing strict authenticity but to create something meaningful and new.
To my mind, the concept of authenticity is subjective; what feels authentic to me may not be the same for someone else. I deeply respect the culinary heritage passed down through generations of my family but also believe in exploring fresh ideas rather than being bound by rigid definitions of tradition.
Q: And finally, what continues to drive your passion for cooking?
A: We’ve been fortunate to serve diners across three generations who truly appreciate the care and passion we put into every dish.
There’s no greater reward than when a guest comes to the kitchen and says “chef, that was the best meal I’ve ever had.” Moments like this fill me with pride, joy and a deep sense of fulfilment.
It’s equally rewarding to watch young chefs who once trained at Araliya grow in their careers and make their own mark on the culinary world.
