Tharshan Selvarajah
The undeniable power of food
By introducing people to the authentic tastes of Sri Lanka, we can foster an appreciation for diverse cuisines
Q: What was it like starting your culinary career in an Italian restaurant? And how did that experience shape your approach to baking bread?
A: It began unexpectedly in an Italian restaurant. As an immigrant from Sri Lanka with limited options, I took the job without much knowledge of the industry.
It was during this time that I met Xavier Maulavé, the owner of boulangerie Au Levain des Pyrénées.
Watching him craft bread, a cornerstone of French culture, ignited a passion within me. The precision, artistry and transformation of simple ingredients into something so extraordinary captivated me.
I seized the opportunity to learn from Maulavé, eager to immerse myself in this traditional craft, which was not an easy feat with my limited knowledge of French.
Q: And what challenges did you face as a Sri Lankan?
A: Moving to France from Sri Lanka was a huge leap. The language barrier was the first challenge. Everything was in French – instructions, conversations and even recipes. It was like trying to swim without knowing how.
On top of that, I had no experience in the culinary world. Baking – especially French bread – is a craft that takes years to master and it’s a traditional French job. It was very daunting.
But I was determined… I watched, learnt and practised tirelessly. Every mistake was a lesson and each small success fuelled my determination.
Q: Could you describe what it was like participating in the Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville De Paris in 2018 and 2023 – and when you were conferred the Best Parisian Baguette?
A: Participating in the Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris in 2018 was a huge step for me. Being placed third as an owner of Au Levain des Pyrénées was an incredible honour. It put our bakery on the map, not only in our neighbourhood but across Paris.
That recognition gave me the confidence boost I needed to believe that I could win this prestigious competition.
When I won last year, it was an overwhelming experience. It’s hard to put into words the emotions I felt. It was the culmination of years of hard work, passion and dedication. Being crowned the Best Baguette Baker in Paris is something I’ll cherish forever.
Q: How did you feel when you were selected as a torchbearer for the 2024 Summer Olympics – and what does it mean to you to receive this honour?
A: It was an absolute dream come true. To represent my adopted city of Paris and be part of such an iconic event is an incredible honour.
But to be selected as a Sri Lankan, an Eelam Tamil, to carry this symbol of unity and sportsmanship is even more profound. As a Sri Lankan Tamil, this achievement holds even deeper significance. It speaks to the power of human spirit, resilience and ability to overcome challenges.
To be recognised on this global stage was a proud moment not only for me but the entire Sri Lankan community. It felt like I was carrying the hopes and dreams of many with me.
Q: What role do you see for Sri Lankan cuisine in the global culinary landscape?
A: Sri Lankan cuisine offers a unique and vibrant flavour profile that can undoubtedly enrich the global culinary landscape. Its complex blend of spices, coconut milk and fresh ingredients has the potential to captivate a wide audience.
While I’m deeply committed to traditional French baking, I believe that there’s immense potential for cross-cultural culinary exploration. By introducing people to the authentic tastes of Sri Lanka, we can foster an appreciation for diverse cuisines and create exciting new culinary experiences.
The power of food is undeniable; it’s a language that transcends borders and cultures. While material possessions may be desirable, food is essential for sustenance and brings people together in a way that nothing else can.
Q: What legacy do you wish to leave behind in the culinary world?
A: Cooking, especially bread making, is an art that can’t be taught with words alone. It’s a craft honed through countless hours of practice. While material possessions can bring temporary satisfaction, the joy and fulfilment derived from food are incomparable.
I aspire to be remembered as a master baker – someone who elevated the art of bread making. Every loaf that leaves my bakery carries a piece of my soul. I believe that even with the same ingredients, each baker imparts a unique touch.
I’m content knowing that my bread will be recognised as a testament to this belief.
CV IN A NUTSHELL
Tharshan Selvarajah is a passionate baker and the proud winner of the Best Baguette in Paris for 2023. Born in Sri Lanka, he found his calling in the heart of France.
With unwavering dedication and a deep love for his craft, he transformed himself from a culinary novice into a master baker. His journey is a testament to the power of perseverance and pursuit of excellence.
Beyond his personal accomplishments, Selvarajah is driven by a desire to share the artistry of French bread making globally, elevating its status and inspiring future generations of bakers.
FACT FILE
FAMILY
Mother – Ranjithadevi (housewife)
Father – Selvarajah (police officer; passed away in 2016)
Younger brother – Nagatheepan (civil engineer based in Sri Lanka)
Elder brother – Thanujan (lives in Paris and works with Tharshan)
Wife – Shasrika (payroll accountant)
Daughter – Ashmikka (at elementary school)
Son – Abeemann (at kindergarten)
SCHOOLING
Vavuniya school
PRESENT OCCUPATION
Artisan boulanger
COUNTRY OF RESIDENCE
France
CITY OF RESIDENCE
Paris